|

Purchased: June 2006
Restoration:
I purchased this cabinet at the Milwaukee Superauction, it had been converted
at least twice, most recently to a Data East game titled Break Thru (Yuk!).
Originally a Stargate cabaret, I had every intention initially of restoring
back to Stargate. I ran into a real roadblock however, in that I could
not find a Control Panel overlay or even a decent scan of one. Plan B,
always in the back of my mind, was to make it into a Robotron. From
everything I can tell, the cabinets on most Williams cabarets (unlike the
uprights) are identical.
Since the cabinet had been painted over grey, and then red, and had some
Break Thru side art on it it was going to be no more difficult to turn this
into a Robotron. Quarterarcade.com sells some
great lexan control panel overlays for the Robotron Cabarets. I put a
post out on the RGVAC group and managed to find a NOS Bezel, and another
collector hooked me up with a repro translite marquee. I hope to
eventually find an original silkscreen marquee.
One of the first things I did was to install new 2"x2" square blocks with
stainless steel 3/8" T-Nuts for the new leg levelers. Originally the
cabaret cabinet only featured (non-statinless) T-Nuts right in the bottom of
the cabinet. For my tastes this leaves the bottom of the cabinet too
vulnerable to damage, as was evidenced by the significant damange to the
bottom edges of this cabinet. Installed the 3/4" blocks to the bottom
of the cabinet using wood glue and 1 1/4" crown staples brings the mounting
point for the leg levelers flush with the bottom of the cabinet, so even if
the levelers are screwed all the way in, the bottom of the cabinet is still
well protected. This is an important step considering how much time
and effort was going to go into repairing and repainting the cabinet
woodwork.
After several days of bondo and sanding I had all the
major gouges and holes filled, and the cabinet edges fairly straight and
smooth. I primed the front of the cabinet grey, as I've have best
results with that under black. I sanded smooth to 220 grit. I
primed each side of the cabinet with several coats of white primer/sealer
and sanded in between the coats to 220 grit. An important trick I've
learned recently is to purchase a good supply of cheap Tack Clothes.
No matter how well you wipe the cabinet clean, a tack cloth will pick up
lots more dust and debris.
Brian Jones posted recently to RGVAC that he found an
ideal paint in the Signature American Traditions line at Lowes. They
carry a Brilliant Metal paint named Pewter Luster that recreates the slight
metallic finish that a factory fresh Robotron would have. It's
actually a two part process, first spraying a plain grey basecoat (Weathered
Fossil) and then the Pewter Luster topcoat. I have to say, the result
is absolutely perfect! And very easy to achieve.
Brian Jones has built up quite an inventory of Williams
upright and cabaret stencils. I originally purchased a set of Stargate
mini stencils from him, and when I switched to Plan B the first thing I did
was order a set of Robotron Mini stencils from him. These come in two
layers for each side, Red and Blue. Unlike the upright the Red layer
is painted first on the cabaret, followed by the blue. Most people
decide to spray the stenciled colors on, I decided to try using a 4" Ultra
Smooth foam roller. I was more than pleased with the results, and it
was much quicker and easier, with almost no clean up (I just threw out the
paint tray and roller pads).
I used a wiring harness from an upright Stargate, which is
almost an exact match for Robotron. I modified a couple of the
connections and everything fit well within the cabaret cabinet. It's
always helpful to keep a good supply of Molex connectors on hand.
* 11/24/2008 Update: I was able to obtain an
original cabaret wiring harness. After replacing the upright harness I
had previously installed, I'm much happier with the final result.
While the upright harness worked, the Williams cabaret cabinets have much
more wire management than the upright cabinets, probably due to the smaller
space. This original wiring harness allows me to replicate the wire
management (wire holders attached to the pcbs with the pcb mounting screws),
and looks much better.
Next to painting, the biggest challenge by far was the
control panel. Since the original control panel was a hacked up
Stargate panel it was not usable. I did pull the hinge off, and
repainted for a nice satin black finish. Fortunately, I had recently
repro'd the metal mounting plates that go under
the Robotron joysticks on the upright control panel. It turns out the
same plates are used on the cabaret. Brian Jones happened to need
about fives sets for a series of Robotron cabaret wood control panel blanks
he was making. A deal was struck and now I had the base for my new
control panel. I picked up one of PhoenixArcade's repro Robotron
cabaret Overlays, cleaned up a set of original Robotron short translucent
blue buttons and installed a set of new leaf switch joysticks. I
pulled a set of lamp holders and wiring from a converted Williams control
panel I had in the garage and used the original Williams wiring, leaf
switches (start buttons) and 15-pin connector from that same panel to wire
up the whole thing. I knew there was a reason I kept all those old
converted control panels around.
To top off my good fortune Scott Caldwell happened to
repro the bracket that goes on the top end of the cabaret control panel and
supports it just beneath the bezel. The original plastic bracket on my
cabinet must have cracked long ago and was replaced with a smaller metal
one. I picked up one of the few brackets Scott had made and it is an
excellent improvement over both the original bracket and the replacement one
that was on my machine. A nice coat of satin black and a few holes for
the screws and my control panel was finished.
I decided not to mess around with the original 13" WG4700
monitor and ordered a new 13" Wells monitor. Besides the great
picture, it's really nice to have the remote control board to adjust the
picture.
Cabaret Notes:
The Marquee light fixture is actually a series of mini-bulbs rather than
a flourescent light fixture like on the upright.
|